Showing posts with label Fine Cooking magazine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fine Cooking magazine. Show all posts

Friday, January 11, 2013

Simple Pasta

True confession: we don't eat a ton of pasta (I know, I know, heinous crime and all that). Red sauce is ok; white sauce is too rich; pesto is a favorite back-up but even that gets old every time and olive oil, while tasty, is too one-note to use constantly.  But there is one pasta recipe we revisit often.

Found in my ubiquitous Fine Cooking magazine (and online here) this is a barely sauced number that gives me everything I like - an outrageously fun pasta shape, peas, leeks, a chance to play with different sausages; a place for home-made chicken broth and a bracing asiago finish. And my mantra of ten ingredients or less!

The cheese binds lightly with the broth to impart a light and almost floral sauce to the dish. The leeks and shallot lend a sweet carmelized taste that works with the peas to make you want to lick the pasta bowl out. We use a hint of butter for taste and olive oil to replace most of the rest suggested in the recipe.

The best recipes in my mind are those that offer a guiding set of foods but that are open to endless play. This is one of those. If you don't have campanelle pasta (trumpet shape), then shells or other open shapes that sweet little peas can nest in work just fine. Don't have peas? Then try another sweet veggie like carrots or rutabagas cut up small. Leeks not on hand? Then play with any allium hanging about the pantry.  Don't like italian sausage? Then try turkey sausage or brats cut up or substitute capers and have no meat at all. Add more meat, less meat, more peas, fewer leeks and you still come out with a simple and delicious dish.

With a bright salad of greens and shaved radishes lightly dressed with olive oil and rice wine vinegar, a satisfying meal is the result. Simple.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

New Year's Cassoulet

For almost ten years now, we've been making cassoulet for New Year's Day. It takes awhile to put it together so I always need about three days off to get it prepped. The run up to New Year's Day affords me the time and leisure to make this savory peasant stew. Nothing is overwhelming in the preparation but it has many parts - duck legs to confit (or buy already prepared); lamb and bean stew to make a day ahead; chicken broth to make; bread to put out to grow stale for crumbs.

I discovered the pleasures of this stew in the January 2002 issue of Fine Cooking  in an article written by Chef Jean-Pierre Moulle (online at their website  for the short version). Now the pages of that article and it's recipe are crinkled, spotted and thin. I start looking at it in October and thinking about where I will find my ingredients. That article is with me all the time over those months running up to January.

Each year, we play with the contents - changing a thing or two: growing the shell beans in the garden; looking for local artisan sausage to include; using our home-baked bread for the crumbs; skipping the pancetta and using the dark applewood flavor of a chunk of Nueske's bacon. The next year we do it entirely differently. Cassoulet isn't fussy.

It's meaty and plain and rich and delicious. It is always a party dish - friends have joined us for years - there are seldom many left-overs. It is mindful cooking in the deepest way I know. It starts the new year. The pleasure of good food, good wine and good friends warms us in the winter.